Across Siberia, on a train

There was nothing but infinite space interspersed with trees as far as the eye could see. In one’s mind’s eye, one could even see beyond, as far as the arctic.  It was a surreal sight, one not to be forgotten. Continue reading

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Lake Baikal and the ‘Paris of Siberia’

There was no mistaking that we were in Siberia, bitingly cold on a September morning, with trees already bereft of leaves and Russians hurrying to work well cushioned from the cold from head to toe. Continue reading

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From Mongolian steppes to Eurasian empire

A country the size of Iran has a population of just about a third that of Tehran, and less than most mid-size towns of Iran, India, Pakistan or China.  Our two nights in a national park, some two hour’s drive out from the city, transported us to a different world, remarkable for its beauty and serenity. Continue reading

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To Ulan Baatar in Mongolia, across the Great Wall

My longest train journeys hitherto had been from Mumbai to Delhi, Urumchi (Xinjiang) to Shanghai, Shanghai to Lhasa (Tibet) and Moscow to London. So, this was it. Not just the longest train journey, but one that will take me to some of the remotest parts of the world, namely, Mongolia and Siberia. Continue reading

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Beijing to Moscow by train

The 21-day tour began with a few days of sight-seeing in Beijing, and similar breaks in Ulan Baatar, Irkutsk (Lake Baikal) and Moscow, concluding with a couple of days in St Petersburg. Altogether, we would be spending six nights and about as many days on the train. Continue reading

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The ‘Pharaoh’ is laughing: all hell is breaking loose

Bush’s neo-cons believed that America could now do just as it pleased. And however Washington chose to intervene anywhere around the world, invasion included, it would be for the latter’s own good. How times have changed!

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What if India wasn’t partitioned?

In an undivided India, about one out of three Indians would have been a Muslim. Muslims would have constituted large majorities in Kashmir, Punjab and Bengal, besides Sindh, Balochistan and the NWFP, and substantially larger minorities elsewhere than presently.  With a population and geographical distribution such as this, it is hard to see them getting the short shrift from the Hindu majority. Continue reading

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Run if you can, and fast

We have reached a point where those who can, flee, those who can’t, pray, plead and then pray a bit more, hoping for the best. The flight started at inception, with Hindus and Sikhs running for their lives, having been declared “minorities” who would at best be second class citizens of a state that was carved out as a homeland for Muslims. Continue reading

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Three countries, three accidents, different reactions

As if these verbal insults were not enough, physical assault was added for good measure. Yusuf Yerkel, adviser to the prime minister was seen kicking a protestor as police officers detained him during a protest against Erdogan’s visit to Soma.  Erdogan himself was caught on camera telling a protester that anyone who insulted the prime minister of the republic deserved to be slapped. Continue reading

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Migrants and “sons of the soil”

A country belongs to whoever has lived there long enough, but only to an extent. In actual fact, all countries are built on waves of migration, some more recent than others. Competition for land and jobs and the relative economic success of new immigrants fuels resentment amongst the “natives”, who, truth be told, are simply descendants of migrants who came before.  Continue reading

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