{"id":61,"date":"2012-03-16T23:27:22","date_gmt":"2012-03-16T23:27:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/?p=61"},"modified":"2020-07-12T10:27:02","modified_gmt":"2020-07-12T10:27:02","slug":"xinjiang-tibet-and-nepal","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/?p=61","title":{"rendered":"Xinjiang, Tibet and Nepal"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">They call it the \u201croof of the world\u201d for a good reason.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Standing there was a very down to earth experience, for everything about Tibet makes one feel earthly, small and weak.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">But before I tell readers about my encounter with Tibet, I should begin where my trip began, at Islamabad airport.<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><!--more--><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><strong>Flying into China \u2013 with Pakistani \u201cbusinessmen\u201d<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">My first exposure to the international wing of the airport of Pakistan\u2019s capital city was an embarrassment. The passenger processing areas are very crammed and badly maintained, but the real surprise was the departure lounge.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Its pathetic look aside, the only passage leading from there to the aircraft was signposted not as a \u201cgate\u201d (which is standard airport terminology) but as an \u201cexit\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">And lest someone thought it was a \u201cgate\u201d, the Urdu translation (<\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">baahar janay ka rasta<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">) was supposed to leave no one in any doubt that it was an exit door, which it wasn\u2019t.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Common sense told passengers that the \u201cexit\u201d led to the aircraft, despite the sign.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">No announcements were being made on the public address system.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Rather, a uniformed PIA employee was walking around randomly asking people if they were bound for Heathrow on flight 785 and advising them to board, pointing them in the direction of the \u201cexit\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This went on for over 20-25 minutes before any announcement was made on the PA system, by which time everyone had boarded the plane anyway.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">My destination was Urumchi, the administrative capital of China\u2019s western province of Xinjiang, flying China Southern Airlines.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Nearly all the passengers on this flight were either Chinese working in Pakistan or Pakistanis doing business in China, though few of them looked like genuine businessmen.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Nearly all the Pakistani \u201cbusinessmen\u201d were dressed in the standard shalwar-kameez, many had large unkempt beards, some looked fearsome.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The man sitting next to me in his shirt and trousers looked more sophisticated than the rest, but the same cannot be said of his views.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">He said he was doing business in Yi Wu, a town not far from Shanghai, where there were many Pakistanis like him.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">He had a poor opinion of his fellow Pakistani \u201cbusinessmen\u201d on the plane, saying they were defaming their country.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This gentleman, let\u2019s call him Shafqat, had a Muslim wife in China, besides the one back home in Pakistan.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">He had studied for a few years at the Jamia Salafia (Salafist University) in Islamabad but did not finish the full course of studies.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Hearing his views, I thought it was an act of mercy from God that Shafqat didn\u2019t graduate.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">For if he did, Shafqat would not be doing business in China but would rather have busied himself in holy war to cleanse the Islamic Republic of Pakistan of \u201cdeviants\u201d (<\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">mushrik) <\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">and \u201cinfidels\u201d (<\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">kuffar<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">).<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">According to Shafqat, 80 per cent of Pakistanis are not Muslims, and that included his parents, whom, under Allah\u2019s guidance, he had now restored to the right path. And the reason for this was not that many Pakistanis do not pray and fast as regularly as they should, but rather because they engaged in \u201c<\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">shirk<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u201d by worshipping saints and tombs.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Shafqat viewed Christians of the West as <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">kafirs<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> (infidels) and not as <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">ahle kitab <\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">(people of the book).<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I have heard this view before, which argues that as contemporary Christians have abandoned religion, they no longer qualify for this honour. <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Shafqat\u2019s position, however, was different and new to me.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">According to him, after the revelation of the Holy Quran was completed, it became the only authentic <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">kitab<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> \u2013 the only book in town, so to say \u2013 and anyone who did not accept it as such was no longer <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">ahle kitab.<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">And, finally, Shafqat quoted from Quran and Hadith to assert that Jews and Christians cannot be friends of Muslims.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I pointed out that there are numerous examples of Christians, Jews, Hindus and others of supporting Muslim causes, besides cultivating personal friendships with Muslims.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I also emphasized the need for tolerance, respect and coexistence between followers of different faiths for the sake of peace on earth.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">While in general agreement with my view on this, he explained, almost with a touch of sadness, that regardless of such considerations of personal relationships, good citizenship and peaceful coexistence, it would be sinful for Muslims to engage in what was forbidden.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">My conversation with Shafqat made my heart sink in despair, although the view below from my window seat was such as to make my spirit soar.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Snow-capped peaks rising above the clouds and rivers of ice plunging into valleys as far as the eye could see \u2013 the view was as inspiring as the words of my interlocutor were mortifying. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">With the aircraft cruising above the lofty and majestic peaks of the Karakorum, I wondered about the likes of Shafqat, tens of millions of them, living in pits of ignorance while availing of the wonderful inventions of science \u2013 jet planes, computers, internet and mobile phones, to mention only a few, as well as taking advantage of the business opportunities on offer in a globalised world, regardless of race or religion.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">We landed at the new Urumchi airport, which must be larger than Karachi airport.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As soon as I turned after filling the disembarkation card, I noticed a queue behind me, of the many Pakistani \u201cbusinessmen\u201d who were too illiterate to fill out the forms in English and wanted me to do it for them.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Worried that I might miss my connecting flight to Kashgar, I decided I could not oblige and hurried to collect my luggage.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In the event, the baggage took a long time coming, although ours was the only international flight at the time.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I surmised that as the flight had arrived from the \u201cLand of the Pure\u201d, all baggage was highly suspect and, therefore, closely inspected before being allowed in.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">After a short flight from Urumchi, I was in Kashgar, a major town on the road to Pakistan, and the second largest city in Xinjiang.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">China\u2019s Muslim-majority western province covers a sixth of the country and is twice the size of Pakistan.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Both culturally and geographically, it is a country within a country, like Tibet.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In custom, cuisine and tradition, it is more Central Asian than Chinese.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">(Published in Daily Times, 23 January 2011)<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">Xinjiang \u2013 China\u2019s Muslim west<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/strong><em><strong><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Uighur language is written in the Arabic script, although it is a variant of Turkish which is now written in the Roman script.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Uighur too was written in the Roman script from 1969 to 1983, when China\u2019s leader Deng Xiaoping very cleverly restored to the Uighur Muslims their beloved Arabic script.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Uighurs rejoiced, oblivious to the fact that the loss of the Roman script deprived them of their natural advantage in learning English compared to their Han Chinese compatriots.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Kashgar has a provincial look although the airport is fairly large and modern.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The city is predominantly Uighur, unlike the provincial capital Urumchi, which is a burgeoning, busy metropolis where the ethnic Han Chinese predominate. Western tourists converge on the Chini Bagh hotel in Kashgar, while Pakistani \u201cbusinessmen\u201d can be seen hanging around in lesser hotels in their favourite shalwar kameez.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">My local guide in Urumchi, a fluent English-speaking Uighur Muslim, told me with some trepidation that the Pakistanis had a very bad reputation, being regarded as uncouth and aggressive and always ready to make advances to local women, no matter their thick and long beards and Islamic pretensions.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It was late July and the markets and pavements were full of grapes, peaches and many varieties of melons, some of which I have not seen elsewhere.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Sadly, no-one had the business acumen to sell cut portions of cold melon or juices.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">One may only buy whole, hot melons, sometimes portions of it, but never cold.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This was the pattern throughout China \u2013 even in Shanghai you can only buy flavoured bottled drinks, sometimes cold, but fresh fruit juice or cut fruits, cold or not, are never sold.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In this respect, other countries can learn from Thailand, where portions of mangoes, papayas, pineapples and other tropical fruits, cold, clean and nicely packaged, are sold off the streets.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">For the best fruit juices, though, one has to go to Luang Prabang, the former royal capital of Laos.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">No-one makes fruit juices like the pretty women of Luang Prabang do!<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">These are delicious concoctions of fresh fruit juice mixed with coconut, milk and other ingredients.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Xinjiang\u2019s melons and grapes are in such demand that they are sold at airport shops, nicely packed in boxes, which many of the departing passengers carry with them as hand luggage.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The best grapes come from Turpan, 150 kilometres to the southeast of Urumchi.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">At 154 metres below sea level, it is the second lowest depression in the world after the Dead Sea.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Turpan may be sizzling hot, but the grapes that grow here are a gift from God!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Uighur <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">naans<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> are a treat for the palate but only when they are hot out of the oven.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">They are sold from open tables, exposed to the elements, and after a while they are dry as a bone.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The only way to eat them is to first soften them up by dipping them in green tea.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The popular and ubiquitous Uighur skewered kebabs are also rather dry. But Xinjiang has many fine dishes, of Central Asian or Turkish origin, with an added tinge of Chinese.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In Kashgar one saw a few women in the head-to-toe black <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">burqa<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> with a brown mesh to cover the face and eyes.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">At the centre of old town is the Eidgah, one side of which is a vast square, surrounded by narrow roads and traditional Uighur shops.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Prayers are regularly held at the Eidgah mosque, set in the middle of a nice garden, outside of which old bearded Uighur men hang out, perhaps deliberating on the precarious state of their religious freedom and dwindling ethnic autonomy in modern China.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A mosque with towering minarets also sits at the heart of Urumchi\u2019s old town, surrounded by traditional shops which sell all manner of very colourful clothing and caps, among other things.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In Urumchi as well as in Lhasa (Tibet), uniformed police and army pickets and patrols are everywhere giving both towns the look of a military zone.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This is the consequence of serious anti-Chinese riots in both cities, in Lhasa on March 14, 2008 and in Urumchi on July 5, 2009.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Many lives were lost, hundreds were injured and there was considerable loss of property.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A Tibetan I met later commented that in eight hours of rioting, Tibetans had only killed 18 Chinese, whereas the Uighurs had managed to kill 140 in two hours.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Sounding almost embarrassed at this relatively low \u201cscore\u201d for Tibet, he explained this to be the result of the peaceful nature of its Buddhist people compared with the ferocity of the Muslim Uighurs!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">About one hundred kilometres northeast of Urumchi is the hill resort of Tian Chi, which means \u201cheavenly lake\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is very aptly named, for the lake is a long stretch of clear blue water, 2,000 metres above sea level, reflecting the snow-clad Peak of God (5,445 m).<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is at the end of a fine road dotted with Kazakh yurts where they put up little ethnic dance shows for the tourists, for a price.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Around Tian Chi I noticed some heavy and dangerous construction work in progress to secure the cliffs from collapsing under the tremendous force of the gushing waters. <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Asked about the absence of Uighurs in the workforce, my guide explained that they were not preferred by the Han Chinese contractors, implying some kind of discrimination.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">But he added that the contractors would find it hard to provide special Muslim food to Uighur workers, who would much rather remain unemployed than be served food which was not guaranteed <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">halal<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">!<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Preferring to be more polite than curious, I chose not to ask why the Muslim workers could not bring their <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">halal<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> food with them from home.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Although my guide\u2019s father was a simple farmer, all six of his children had graduated from college on government scholarships or stipends, but jobs were hard to find.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">He himself had a degree in irrigation technology, but was working as a casual tourist guide, thanks to his good English. Judging by the number of Western, Central Asian and Chinese tourists visiting Xinjiang, perhaps he made more money helping them than he would if he worked as an irrigation engineer.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">(<\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Published in Daily Times, 24 January 2011<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">)<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">Travelling in China \u2013 mountain to sea<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">For my trip to Tashkorgan (3,600 metres above sea level), I took a shared taxi with a group of Western backpackers. Tashkorgan is a Chinese border town on the Karakorum Highway, 120 kms from Sost in Pakistan across the Khunjerab Pass.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The town stands astride the meeting point of five countries, namely, Afghanistan, Tajikistan\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">and Kyrgystan, besides China and Pakistan, although the only border crossing from here is to Pakistan.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From Kashgar, it is a 6-7 hour drive to Tashkorgan, 230 kms away.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A couple of hours after leaving Kashgar, which is on a flat, dusty plain, the road enters fantastic mountain scenery with snow-clad peaks on either side, including the Kongur Mountain (7,719 m).<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Karakul Lake is a sight to behold, with clear blue waters reflecting the white snowy peaks surrounding it on three sides.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The road passes through Tajik territory with Tajik and Kirghiz stalls vending various kinds of precious stones.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">One passes rows of large trucks coming from the opposite direction, carrying large boulders needed for construction work in the rest of China.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Afghanistan\u2019s narrow Wakhan strip is only a few kilometers from here, giving Afghanistan a 76 kilometre-long border with China.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Readers might find it interesting to know that a mere 25-30 kms of the Wakhan strip separates Pakistan from Tajikistan (and the former USSR).<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As on all roads in mountainous areas, the river is never far.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">On this stretch the road does not cross high mountain passes, rather meanders leisurely through the mountains helped by the river cutting its way through.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">On this road, as well as on the road to Nepal in Tibet, all traffic in both directions must pass through a police check post about a hundred kilometers from the international border.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Here everyone, whether a Chinese or a foreign national, must disembark and produce their travel or identity documents.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This, of course, is in addition to the main immigration control at the international borders which, in this case, is at Tashkorgan.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tashkorgan is a neat little town, unlike the small Tibetan towns on the road to Nepal, which are rather untidy and full of stray dogs which freely crouch under restaurant tables scrounging for food.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tibetans believe that the sick, stray dogs that hang around monasteries are the reincarnations of bad monks.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">But even bad monks must be respected and fed, so they are allowed to loiter, no matter their sickly looks and festering wounds.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The next leg of my trip was by train from Urumchi to Shanghai, at the other extremity, on the east coast of China. Urumchi railway station is massive, clean and very well organized.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Big electronic boards outside the station announce the waiting room numbers for particular trains.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">After passing through security checks, we took our seats in the lounge which was blocked off from the entrance to the platform by little gates. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">There was no activity until about 20 minutes before the departure time, much like boarding time at airports.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Seeing the large crowd assembled in the lounge and no movement whatsoever, I wondered how on earth we were going to catch the train.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">But just at the right time, with military precision, a few uniformed railway staff (mostly women) emerged out of nowhere.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">They opened the little gates one by one, allowing a steady and smooth flow of passengers from the waiting lounge to the train.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">No coolies or porters and no jostling \u2013 everyone quietly proceeded to their pre-assigned compartment and berth.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The process is eased by the attendants who are assigned to every compartment and who stand at attention on the platform next to the door whenever the train stops at any station.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is all too disciplined and well-organised.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">And not much fun, compared to the veritable bazaars that Indian and Pakistani trains and stations are \u2013 colourful, disorderly, bustling and noisy!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The platforms in China look deserted except for two or three hawkers\u2019 stalls and the passengers eager to provision themselves for the rest of the journey.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Fresh hot food and packed food are also sold in the train by uniformed salespersons quietly pushing their trolleys through the aisles.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">What a contrast with Indian or Pakistani trains, where the hawkers advertise in high pitch melodious voices their wares, which are precariously balanced in baskets on their heads or dangle painfully from their arms.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Giving me company on this long train journey from Urumchi to Shanghai were three Muslim Uighurs, two whom offered all their prayers, even discussing amongst themselves which were obligatory during travel and which were not.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">All three ate nothing but their bone-dry <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">naan<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> after their supply of roasted meat had run out, shunning the food sold on the train as it was not <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">halal<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">During the 48-hour journey, the train stopped at no more than ten stations and never for more than 3-4 minutes.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The water in the washrooms and toilets never ran out although no device to refill the tanks at the stations was evident.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Either the tanks were very large or water was being recycled!<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Hoping it was the former rather than the latter, I chose not to ask.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The mostly-female attendants regularly patrolled the compartments to ensure discipline and cleanliness.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Given their stern looks and police-type uniforms, breaches were few and far between.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The attendants richly deserved their salaries, constantly watching, sweeping the floors, collecting trash in plastic bags and leaving them in neat rows on the platform whenever the train stopped, to be disposed of later by the station staff.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">At the massive Shanghai railway station, which was packed with passengers arriving from and travelling to all corners of China, I counted but two uniformed porters with wheeled luggage carriers.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Everyone else carried or pushed his own luggage.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">If the quality and compactness of the luggage which travelers carry reflect the standard of living in a country, China surely has made much progress.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The huge, underground taxi stand at the Shanghai railway station also cannot fail to impress.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It resembles the taxi ranks at large western airports, where taxis and intending passengers line up in queues and are served systematically. Except that, at Shanghai railway station, it is underground.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">(Published in Daily Times, 7 February 2011)<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">Awesome infrastructure \u2013 China\u2019s roads and rails<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/strong><em><strong><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It will come as a surprise to most people that, at 86,000 kms, the Chinese railway network is the third largest in the world and larger than India\u2019s (62,658 kms).<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">China also has the world\u2019s fastest train in service, the German-built Maglev train which clocks 431 kilometres per hour in a short burst from Shanghai city to the airport.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Infrastructure development in China leaves visitors in awe.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I have had the experience of travelling the length and breadth of China, including some of the most challenging and difficult terrain in Xinjiang and Tibet.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Although I had heard and read about it, yet for me seeing was believing.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">China plans to build tens of thousands of kilometers of new track by 2020, adding new high-speed rail lines between major cities. And with the completion of the five north-south and the seven east-west national arterial highways, totaling 35,000\u00a0km, motorways now connect over 200 cities across China.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As far as highway networks go, the US Interstate system still stands in a class by itself.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Launched in the late 1950s under President Eisenhower, after whom it is named, the system has a total length of 75,440 km, making it both the largest highway system in the world and the largest public works project in history.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Chinese road system covers colossal distances.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">For example, from Shanghai it is 3,748 km to Yunnan (on the Burmese border), 4,967 to Yining (in Xinjiang) and 5,334 to Zhangmu (on the Nepalese border).<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Lhasa is 3,855 km from Beijing by road, while Khunjerab Pass (on the Pakistan border) is 1,948 km from the provincial capital of Urumchi. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Level railway and road crossings are nearly non-existent.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Instead, there are over-bridges or underpasses, hundreds of them, in cities, towns and rural areas, regardless of whether the roads are sealed, gravel or dirt.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Travelling close to 100 hours on Chinese trains, I counted but three or four level crossings on the way.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The huge investment in overpasses and underpasses along the entire length of the railway system must have been worth it for cutting waiting times and saving lives and resources by reducing the number of accidents.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A recent BBC report suggested that there were more people speaking English in China than there were in India!<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is certainly true that the Chinese people are learning English fast.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">On the streets of Shanghai a number of times my friend and I were approached by friendly Chinese girls who wanted to converse with us in English to improve their own.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Their English was impressive. Also touting their wares in rudimentary English were some men, their merchandise consisting generally of three items: shoes, watches and \u201cnice\u201d girls.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Nevertheless, it seems Mandarin and English do not mix well.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Chinese conundrum in pronouncing the \u2018r\u2019 sound is well known.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Not infrequently, \u2018r\u2019 is pronounced as \u2018l\u2019 leading to hilarious results.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Thus, some Mandarin-speakers will order \u2018lice\u2019 (rice) for dinner.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In the US they have been heard to complain about too frequent \u201ce*ections\u201d and in Australia (where voting is compulsory) about compulsory \u201ce*ections\u201d.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The internet is full of examples of what is called \u201cChinglish\u201d \u2013 notices in English in China that are so poorly rendered as to be incomprehensible or funny.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This is the result of literal translation and, perhaps, translation with computer software.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I have some pickings of my own:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">In Shanghai Metro: \u201cIntelligent information system\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">At Shanghai Expo: \u201cPolite language and no noising\u201d; \u201cPolite sharing and no challenging\u201d.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">At the Tian Chi resort near Urumchi: \u201cGreen grass is afraid of your trample\u201d; \u201cThe civilisation is the most beautiful scenery\u201d; \u201cMedical Salvation Tel. No\u201d.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">A road sign in Tashkorgan: \u201cThe Middle Road of the Western Circling City\u201d.<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">On the menu of a restaurant in Tashkorgan: \u201cAcid pocket fish, misc of braise, the sheep hoof of spicy, sub-meat, ear speculation, beef rot, the fish mother, pure belly clearance, toothpicks meat, iron lamb, capsule speculation of meat, round mushroom of meat\u201d!<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">What would you like to order for lunch, dear reader?<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">But, please remember, polite sharing and no noising!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I was surprised \u2013 and duped \u2013 by the absence of beggars in Shanghai.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I learned later that they had been forced out, one and all, for the duration of the Expo.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The main pedestrian mall of Shanghai was heavily patrolled by police in small buggies, on motorcycles and on foot, who kept a close watch on any sign of unusual activity, begging or loitering.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Many vestiges of the communist system \u2013 and mindset \u2013 survive in China. I have already mentioned how the attendants in the long distance trains stand at attention on the platforms next to the doors while the trains are stationary.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">At the entrances to the main metro stations in Shanghai, two uniformed policemen stand in attention on two round pedestals, one higher than the other, reflecting rank.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I asked one if I could have a photo of myself taken with them and was told in no uncertain terms that this was prohibited.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Not one to easily give up and also having some idea of how things work with bureaucracies, I made the same request at the next station and was told, smilingly, that it was perfectly fine.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">Lest I overstate the level of development and discipline in China, I must mention three facts which show that China has a long way to go before it can claim to be a modern country:<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">I had to pay a hefty bribe of 250 Yuan for a train ticket worth 700 Yuan to get my <\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">sleeper berth at short notice on the Urumchi to Shanghai train.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">On the way back from Tashkorgan to Kashgar, I witnessed a local police officer being helped into the coveted front seat of the bus (which had been allocated to another passenger with a valid ticket) by uniformed policemen; by all appearances, the police officer did not even have a ticket.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">He smoked throughout the journey sitting directly under a no-smoking sign, continuously offering cigarettes to the driver until he could take no more.<\/span><\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">Most public toilets are without water, soap or toilet paper.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">M<\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">y next destination was Tibet, the second largest region in China (after Xinjiang).<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is nearly one and a half times the size of Pakistan, at an average altitude of more than 4,000 metres.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is called the \u201croof of the world\u201d, but they might as well call it \u201cout of this world\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is a place like no other!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">(Published in Daily Times, 13 February 2011)<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tibet \u2013 \u201c<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">roof of the world\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tibet has beckoned me ever since I read Anna Louise Strong\u2019s \u201cA Million Serfs Stood Up\u201d as a teenager.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It was not the most objective of books on Tibet, but its description of the land and its people fascinated me. More recently, Heinrich Harrer\u2019s absorbing account in \u201cSeven Years in Tibet\u201d rekindled my interest in this vast and forbidding land.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It was an exciting thought that I could now travel to Lhasa by train. From Shanghai to Lhasa it is a journey of about 50 hours.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Qinghai-Tibet Railway, the world&#8217;s highest railway, extends 1,956 km from Xining to Lhasa, the final 1,142 km of which was completed in 2006. About 960 kilometers of the line is more than 4,000 meters above sea level, Tanggula Pass at 5,072 meters being its highest point. This is higher than the famous Khunjerab Pass (4,693 metres) on the Karakorum Highway on the Pakistan-China border. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Every cabin in the Lhasa train is fitted with oxygen vents, which are activated to make breathing easier in the thin air.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Indicators show altitude and oxygen levels, which are continuously monitored by the attendants to regulate the supply of oxygen.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As we travelled in summer, our train whistled through lush green, treeless meadows with snow visible on higher grounds in the distance.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Large herds of yak and, occasionally, horses and deer grazed the grass, eating voraciously as if in a race against time.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">For soon the grass would be covered with a blanket of snow for nine long month<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">About 34 hours after leaving Shanghai, at 5:30 in the morning, our train arrived in Golmud, the starting point of the new high altitude train line.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">For the next 14 hours, until it cruised into the large and imposing Lhasa railway station, the train trudged along at an average elevation of over 3,500 metres. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">About two hours short of Lhasa, our train was joined by a very high official, perhaps the governor or party chief of Tibet.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">He sat in the dining car and was served a kind of high tea with fruits which had eluded us.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">To his credit, he sat there by himself, without guards, chatting on his mobile phone and with the staff of the dining car. He exuded confidence and authority.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The modesty of his demeanor was rather superficial, however.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">His power was evident.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Firstly, uniformed sentries were standing at attention every few kilometers along the tracks for the rest of the journey.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Secondly, a cavalcade of cars, including a police escort, had driven onto the platform of Lhasa railway station to spare him the trouble (or risk?) of walking out of the station to his waiting car.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">And, finally, everyone who had come to receive arriving passengers, including our tour guide, were not allowed to approach the station and were kept waiting at some distance while disembarking passengers were asked by armed soldiers to move on.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As a result, there was a great deal of confusion and it was with some difficulty that we were able to find our guide.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I had regarded myself ready to tackle the high altitude of Tibet as I had the experience of crossing Lowari, Shandur, Burzil and Babusar passes in northern Pakistan, at 3,200, 3,700, 4,100 and 4,175 metres, respectively. I had grossly underestimated the \u201croof of the world\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Typically, one stays at the top of high mountain passes only briefly, perhaps only to take a few photos.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">One ascends the pass and then descends to lower altitudes rather quickly.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">But in Tibet, there is no escape from high altitude: Lhasa is at 3,700 metres, Shigatse 3,900, Lhatse 3,950, Sakya 4,280 and Tingri 4,390. Compare these with Chitral, Gilgit, Murree, Skardu and Nathiagali, at 1,100, 1,500, 2,300, 2,500 and 2,500 metres, respectively. The average elevation of Tibet is 4,900 metres, nearly double that of Nathiagali.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Not only altitude, but also distance acquires a new dimension in Tibet.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is nearly 800 km from Lhasa to Zhangmu (Dram) on the Nepalese border.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A journey by road from the eastern to the western extremity in Tibet is about 5,000 km.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tibet is nearly one and a half times the size of Pakistan.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This excludes the province of Qinghai, which is geographically a part of Tibet.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Tibet cultural region is even larger, for it includes Ladakh and parts of northeastern India, besides Qinghai.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The landscape in Tibet has some resemblance with Deosai plateau in Baltistan in northern Pakistan, historically known as \u201cTibet-e-Khurd\u201d (Little Tibet).<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">At an average altitude of just over 4,000 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">metres, Deosai is the world\u2019s second highest plateau after Tibet.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Deosai National Park lies between Skardu and <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Astore, <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">covering an area of about 3,000\u00a0square kilometres<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">. It takes about five hours to cross the plateau by jeep on a gravel road.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Deosai means \u201cland of giants\u201d in the local language. \u201cBakarwals\u201d or \u201cGujjars\u201d, nomadic herdsmen who take their sheep and goats for grazing to these parts during the brief summer, will tell you that giant monsters (<\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">deo<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">) inhabit these lands.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">They first call out to wayfarers, driving them mad and making them run in all directions, and then devour them.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I imagine that this belief springs from the fact that people easily lose their way on these elevated, treeless plains, their screams for help echoing across the plateau like voices of strange monsters.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">To prevent people from getting lost, the authorities have posted bamboo poles as markers along the gravel road over the Deosai Plain.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">These remain visible when the whole plateau is blanketed in snow for 10 months of the year, providing direction to travellers. Many a life has also been lost in crossing the Burzil pass between Astore and Minimarg close to the Indo-Pakistan border in Kashmir.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The army runs a shelter near the summit where all passers-by are served tea and biscuits.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">While Baltistan may resemble Tibet, albeit on a much smaller scale, Potala Palace is like no other place.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is absolutely magnificent.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Nothing prepares you for it. It is without equal.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">And I say this as one who has visited magnificent palaces of Europe, including the Kremlin in Moscow and the Versailles near Paris. What Potala lacks in interior designing, furnishing and lighting compared to the European palaces, it sufficiently makes up with its awe-inspiring exterior and its elevation.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As for the interior, it is a place of meditation, study and worship rather than a palace.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">(Published in Daily Times, 5 March 2011)<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: large; color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\"><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tibet\u2019s <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Potala, monasteries and monks<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Standing in awe before Lhasa\u2019s Potala Palace, one cannot but shed a tear or two for the tens of thousands of pathetically poor and malnourished Tibetans for the long and endless hours they were obliged to toil to build a magnificent mansion for the Dalai Lama, their \u201cliving Buddha\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The construction of Potala took more than 50 years, starting in 1645.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It rises 13 storeys high from a 130-metre high hill and contains more than a thousand rooms. The humble Buddha must be turning in his grave at such splendor being associated with his name!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Despite six decades of Chinese rule, monks, monasteries and mantras pervade Tibet\u2019s landscape.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Prayer wheels come in all sizes, spinning at entrances to monasteries and twirling in the hands of the devout.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Prayer flags flutter everywhere.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">They hang like necklaces around hills and over mountain passes, even obscuring road signs and notices.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tibetan body-length prostrations are quite a sight \u2013 an impressive, if excruciating, exhibition of obeisance. Starting in a standing position facing a monastery, the faithful clasps both hands together above the forehead, moving them down in two steps to touch the chest, while silently chanting prayers.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">With both legs tied together just below the knee, the devotee then slides forward on the ground face down using the palms of the hands as props.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Then he rises on his feet to repeat the act.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tibetan religious fervour nearly cost me my life.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">One of the great festivals of Tibet is the Shoton festival.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">On this day, early in the morning, 100 senior monks (lamas) carry a large \u201cthangka\u201d (a silk embroidery with painting of the Buddha) from the Drepung Monastery in Lhasa to a hilltop.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The way leading to the hilltop, a few kilometers out of town and up the mountains, was teeming with thousands of men, women and children, trudging along to have a glimpse of the \u201cthangka\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">They lighted mulberry fires on the way making the air, already thin on oxygen because of altitude, so thick with smoke as to make breathing very difficult.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Praying and chanting they moved slowly uphill, old and young, men and women, healthy and sick.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A father dragged his mentally retarded son in the hope that the effort will cure him.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">On the way back, the crowd had to pass through a narrow road which had been further constricted by street hawkers selling snacks and drinks and a long row of four-wheel drives of the VIPs.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Many streams of devotees converged here into one column to pass through a bottleneck about 200 metres or so in length.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Here, our bodies pressed one against another. As the road was slightly sloping downwards, gravitational pull and the forward push from behind combined to create a dangerous situation.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Panicked policemen on duty clambered over the roofs of the four-wheel drives barking orders while ensuring their own safety. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">One person toppling over would have resulted in a domino effect causing a crush and a stampede.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Luckily, just when I thought I was in a hopeless situation, I located a narrow opening through an iron gate on one side of the road and ran for my life, not knowing whether to thank the Buddha for the lucky escape or to blame him for this near-death experience.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">For about 5-10 minutes, which seemed like an eternity at the time, I thought I was going to get crushed. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">While monks and monasteries are pervasive in Tibet, fruits and vegetables are scarce.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A Western woman we met in Shigatse said that in over 20 years of working with NGOs around Asia and Africa, she had not seen such malnutrition anywhere else as she had seen in the interior of Tibet.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">According to her, it was worse than Ethiopia.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The harsh climatic condition of Tibet is not conducive to agriculture, but the situation is aggravated by the Tibetan people\u2019s clinging to their old ways and reluctance to adopt modern, scientific agricultural methods.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">Our group of six travelled in two four-wheel drives (with an English-speaking Tibetan guide) for five days from Lhasa to the Nepalese border, with overnight stops in Shigatse, Lhatse, Tingri and at the border town with three names: Zhongma (Chinese), Dram (Tibetan) and Khasi (Nepali).<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">We crossed the Yarmuk\/Tsangpo River, which flows through India and Bangladesh as the Brahmaputra.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Slightly to the west of here is the source of the Indus River which waters parts of northwest India and the whole length of Pakistan. It is in Tibet, too, that the other great rivers of Asia have their humble beginnings before they transform into the mighty Mekong and Ganges rivers, which irrigate half a dozen countries downstream before flowing into the sea in the south.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Climbing Gambala Pass (4,950 m) reminded me of Babusar Pass in Kaghan valley, except that it is much higher and the road much better.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It was the most scenic drive in Tibet, apart from the descent to the Nepalese border through precipitous hairpin turns and verdant foliage.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">These are some of the finest sceneries and mountain roads I have seen anywhere.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Four days drive west from Lhasa is Mt Kailash (6,638 m), sacred to four religions, Hinduism, Jainism, Buddhism and Bon (a minor religion of Tibet).<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Hindus and Jains circumambulate the mountain in a clock-wise direction, while Buddhists and Bons do so in the counter-clockwise direction (as Muslims do around Kaaba).<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It\u2019s no child\u2019s play, however, the perimeter walk being a hefty 52 km, requiring over 15 hours to complete.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Though it may be done in stages, it is not for the frail of body or faith, nor for the faint-hearted.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I recall walking to Ghar-e-Saur (Saur Cave) near Mecca some years ago.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Muslim readers will know that this is the cave where Prophet Muhammad hid for three days from the Quraish of Mecca just before his <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">hijrat <\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">(migration) to Medina.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is a demanding walk of nearly three kilometres through a dry, stony creek bed, followed by a climb of about five hundred metres.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">While I found the going quite hard, many Pakistani men and women in their sixties and seventies cheerfully made their way up, powered by their religious fervour.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">The highly devout Hindus, Jains, Buddhists and Bons choose to circumambulate Mt Kailash the hard way \u2013 by moving forward through body-length prostrations <\/span><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">over the entire circumference of the sacred peak.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This takes at least four weeks of extreme physical endurance to complete.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The greater the effort, the more the merit!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">(Published in Daily Times, 14 March 2011)<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">Tibet \u2013 time warps &amp; time zones<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/strong><strong><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Shigatse is the second largest city and the seat of the second holiest man (after the Dalai Lama) in Tibet, the Panchen Lama.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Photographs of the 10<\/span><\/span><sup><span style=\"font-size: small; color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">th<\/span><\/sup><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> Panchen Lama, who died in 1989, adorn all monasteries in this part of Tibet, even shops.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This is in sharp contrast to Lhasa and the Potala Palace where the current (14<\/span><\/span><sup><span style=\"font-size: small; color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">th<\/span><\/sup><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">)<\/span> <span style=\"color: #000000;\">Dalai Lama\u2019s name and pictures are conspicuous by their total absence.\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Indeed, Potala has the feel of a wedding without the bride.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Chinese government has a pathological aversion for the Dalai Lama, who lives in exile in Dharamsala in India since fleeing Tibet in 1959 with a large group of followers.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">And it goes to grotesque lengths to show it.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">In Kathmandu, I met a French couple who looked pathetic when told that we had travelled through Tibet. They had been deported from Lhasa airport as they were carrying a copy of the Lonely Planet guidebook on Tibet which has a picture of the Dalai Lama and references to him.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Panchen Lama\u2019s official headquarter in Shigatse, the Tashilhunpo Monastery,<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> is a huge complex. <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Across the road from it, on a concrete square, scores of Tibetans quietly go about performing their ritual body-length prostrations. As to the number of prostrations, like in religious matters generally, the more the better. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">While the current Dalai Lama is <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">persona non grata<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">, the current (11<\/span><\/span><sup><span style=\"font-size: small; color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">th<\/span><\/sup><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">) Panchen Lama is part tragedy, part comedy.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">There are two claimants to the position, one appointed by the Chinese government, the other nominated by the Dalai Lama.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The Dalai Lama\u2019s nomination of a six-year old as the future Panchen Lama in 1995 proved a kiss of death for the child, for he vanished from view soon thereafter. He has been called the \u201cyoungest political prisoner in the world\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Beijing claims that he lives \u201chappily\u201d \u2013 albeit incommunicado \u2013 in Beijing, undergoing education.\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">An hour\u2019s drive south of Shigatse, in Gyantse, there is an amazing fortress precariously perched on a cliff top. <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In 1904 a British Indian force of one thousand, commanded by Francis Younghusband, attacked the town.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Their victory resulted in the establishment of a British trade mission in Tibet.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The story goes that the last men standing from the Tibetan army took refuge in the fortress and ultimately jumped to their deaths rather than surrender to the enemy.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A couple of hundred metres further is the large Palcho Monastery, one of Tibet\u2019s finest, which about fifty years ago was home to over a thousand monks, whose numbers are now down to 30.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A gold-inscribed manuscript of a Buddhist sacred text over six hundred years old is said to be on display here, but when we asked to see, it was said to be under lock and key \u201csomewhere\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Here, little monks no older than 10-15 years were cleaning the grounds with brooms, raising a cloud of dust so dense as to choke their young lungs.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Our next stop was the monastery town of Sakya, about 125 km to the west of Shigatse.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The monastery has a huge library of ancient prayer books neatly stacked along the walls. <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As many as 84,000 scrolls were found sealed up in a wall 60 metres long and 10 metres high at Sakya Monastery in 2003.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Dealing with both religious issues and such subjects as literature, history, philosophy, astronomy, mathematics and art, they are thought to have remained untouched for hundreds of years. <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Monks were reading from prayer books under very dim lights. Some Tibetans were crawling under the raised bottom shelves to earn merit.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Exceptionally big logs which are not found in the area support the high roofs of the main hall of the monastery.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tibetans believe that these logs miraculously flew from southern Tibet where they are found.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">Many of the buildings were destroyed or damaged and scriptures burned during the Cultural Revolution that began in 1966, when hordes of Chinese Red Guards supported by Mao Zedong went on a rampage against imaginary class enemies which included all men and symbols of religion.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As we travelled along the highways, I noticed that the milestones on China\u2019s highways do not tell the distance <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">to<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> the next town, but rather the distance <\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">from<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> Beijing.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Perhaps, this is meant to reinforce Beijing\u2019s status as the boss.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In China, where centralisation is writ large, all roads lead to Beijing. Even the country\u2019s name in the Chinese language (<\/span><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Zhongguo<\/span><\/em><span style=\"color: #000000;\">) translates as \u201cmiddle kingdom\u201d or \u201ccentral country\u201d.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Similarly, Beijing time is China\u2019s standard time, although before the Communist takeover in 1949, the country was divided into five time zones.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Now, all parts and corners of China must adjust their clocks to Beijing time, no matter that Beijing sits at the far east of the country, nearly five thousand kilometers away from its western frontier.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In practice, though, the people of western China follow their own unofficial time, which is two hours behind Beijing, closer to the ground reality.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">China is not the only country to be wary of differential times within the country. India\u2019s eastern-most states, namely, Tripura, Mizoram, Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh, officially are on Indian Standard Time, which means that the time there, on the Indo-Burmese border, is the same as on India\u2019s western border with Pakistan, nearly three thousand kilometres away.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In a total reversal of time zone logic, this puts the people of India\u2019s eastern states half an hour behind Bangladesh (situated west of them), rather than ahead.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">If Chinese and Indian insistence on putting the whole country on a single time zone is an assertion of central authority, then Nepal putting its clocks a quarter of an hour ahead of India is an affirmation of sovereignty vis-\u00e0-vis its larger and more powerful neighbor.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Besides being totally irrational, it must cause unnecessary confusion for the people of both Nepal and India, who are deeply intertwined economically and demographically.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">There are no passport and visa requirements between the two neighbours and their citizens are free to travel, study and work in the other country. As a result, tens of thousands of Nepalese study or work in India.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Conversely, thousands of Indians live and do business in Nepal, as I discovered when we arrived there a few days later through the Lhasa-Kathmandu Friendship Highway.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">(Published in Daily Times, 19 March 2011)<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">Tibet to Nepal by road <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">After a night in Lhatse, which is little more than a stopover with a couple of hotels and some shops on the highway to Nepal, we drove to Tingri. From the road, as well as from Tingri township itself, one gets panoramic views of Mt Everest, which the Chinese call Chomolungma.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The highest peak in the world sits or, more correctly, stands astride the Nepal-China border, just as the second highest (K-2) is situated on the Pak-China border.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Both peaks can be ascended from either country.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tingri is a rather grubby place with perhaps as many stray dogs as there are people.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It is dominated by the remnants of a fort on a hilltop. This fort was once occupied by the fearsome Nepalese who had driven out the Tibetans in one of many battles which the history of the region is packed with.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Tibet has waxed and waned over the centuries.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In the ninth century, Tibetan<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> influence extended as far south as Bengal and as far north as Mongolia.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Heading towards the Nepalese border, the scene becomes eerily desolate, somewhat surreal. Icy water gushes on either side of the road and large herds of goat occasionally block the road itself.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Horse-drawn carts ferry passengers from one village to another.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Fitted with motorcycle wheels, they are much lighter compared with those in Pakistan, which have much heavier wheels from motor vehicles.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Throughout Tibet, the houses are strong and well-built structures made of rectangular blocks hewed from stone, unlike the mud and stone houses in the Indian subcontinent.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The road crosses two passes more than five thousand metres high before descending to lower altitudes, leaving behind the high plateau of Tibet.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Not long after leaving Tingri, the scenery changes dramatically.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The road begins a thrilling descent, airplane like, through countless hairpin bends surrounded by lush green scenery and torrents of water, until one reaches the little frontier town of Zhangmu.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In a mere hundred kilometres or so, the road drops over four thousand metres.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Zhangmu is essentially a string of shops and hotels on either side of a narrow street choked with Indian trucks bearing Nepalese number plates and groups of Indian pilgrims heading to Mt Kailash.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Money changers ply their trade from all shops and many shopkeepers, whether Tibetan or Chinese, manage to speak a little Hindi, as do those who work at hotels and restaurants.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From here, it is a 10-minute drive to the border, where a bridge across the fast-flowing \u201c<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Bhote Koshi\u201d (Nepali for &#8220;river from Tibet&#8221;) <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">connects China with Nepal.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The contrast couldn\u2019t be sharper between the two sides. On the Chinese side is a modern, well-maintained building which houses immigration and customs with modern facilities of passport control and baggage check.\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The border runs through the middle of the bridge, 100 meters or so in length, with Chinese border guards posted every few metres along the Chinese side and somewhat fewer Nepalese soldiers on the Nepalese side.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As the Nepalese looked friendly, compared with the stern and solemn appearance of the Chinese soldiers, I asked one if I could take photos from the bridge.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">He said it was OK with him but that I should ask the Chinese.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">Since I was on the Nepalese half of the bridge and some distance from the Chinese border guards, I didn\u2019t think it was necessary to ask the Chinese. But just as I was getting ready to take the first picture, I was grabbed by two plain clothes Chinese security men who were inconspicuously strolling on the Nepalese half of the bridge. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It didn\u2019t matter anyway, for we had taken pictures of the river without any fuss while waiting outside the immigration building on the Chinese side.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">In authoritarian political cultures, the law is what the official decides is the law at any given time, depending on mood and varying from person to person!<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I recalled being prevented by a Russian air hostess from taking pictures from a Soviet plane. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As one crosses into Kodari in Nepal on the other side of the bridge, one leaves a regime of strict control and mind-boggling material progress and enters a state of chaos and dilapidation.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">With no sign of an immigration office, the arriving visitor makes his way using his common sense through a crowd of taxi drivers to a rundown, unmarked two-room structure.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From inside, it resembles a typical railway office in the subcontinent, with a few sullen officials manning counters. It is a scene of disorganization, lethargy and backwardness. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Dues paid and visa formalities completed, it was time to find a taxi for the trip to Kathmandu. <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">What should have been an easy enough task, proved rather difficult.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The taxi drivers are outnumbered by touts, all of them determined to extract the maximum dollars from their exhausted and confused passengers.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">To add to the pressure, we were told that we would not be able to leave until a few hours later because of a strike in Nepal.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This was only partly true, as we discovered.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Indeed, there was a strike by \u201cadhivasis\u201d (tribal people), but vehicles with foreign tourists displaying \u201ctourists only\u201d signs were allowed to pass unhindered.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Illiterate and backward the Nepalese may be, but they know which side of their bread is buttered.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This was a concession to the fact that a high proportion of the Nepalese population depends on tourists for its livelihood.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">After protracted, frustrating and unsuccessful negotiations with many a tout and taxi driver \u2013 it was hard to distinguish between the two \u2013 we were lucky to find a good-natured taxi driver, who agreed to drive us immediately at a reasonable price to Kathmandu over the \u201cFriendship Highway\u201d.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The 130 km-long road was built by the Chinese in the 1960s as a gift to Nepal, but the Nepalese have allowed it to deteriorate so much that it is barely passable at places.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It reminded me of the Karakorum Highway (KKH) in Pakistan, which connects Abbottabad with Khunjerab Pass on the Chinese border about 800 km to the north, also built with Chinese assistance.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I have had the pleasure of travelling over the KKH three times, the first time within a year of its completion, in 1978.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">It has progressively deteriorated ever since, in spite of the huge amounts of money provided for its maintenance.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Thirty kilometers of the highway now lie under water.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">There, boats have replaced buses and trucks to transport people and goods. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">(Published in Daily Times, 24 March 2011)<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">Nepal \u2013 mountains, gods &amp; conspiracies<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As we drove closer to Kathmandu, we ran through roadblocks set up by strikers.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">They let through our vehicles which displayed hand-written \u201cTourists Only\u201d signs. <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A dozen or so such vehicles formed into a convoy and, at one point, two policemen rode on the roof of the one at the front.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">A car with a Nepalese family which had merged with our convoy in the hope of getting through was ferreted out.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Kathmandu is really three cities in one, Patan and Bhaktapur being the other two components of this triad, in which the bulk of Nepal\u2019s urban population lives. It is one bloated, congested, unplanned, poorly maintained agglomeration of houses, shops and temples.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Most backpackers and tourists converge in Thamel, in the centre of Kathmandu.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Even here the roads are potholed, which on a rainy day turn into muddy, barely passable puddles.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">At such times, it becomes necessary to hire a rickshaw even to cross an intersection.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The cycle-rickshaws of Kathmandu are a pathetic sight.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Both rickshaw and driver look rather miserable in comparison with rickshaws elsewhere in the subcontinent, with the exception of Kolkata\u2019s hand-pulled rickshaws.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Lhasa\u2019s rickshaws are quite presentable, while some in Dhaka are downright pretty, lovingly decorated like the trucks in Pakistan, a matter of pride for its driver.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Nepal must be the only country in the world where even the road that connects the capital city with the international airport is rather dilapidated.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This is quite surprising as Nepal\u2019s two large neighbours, China and India, provide her with substantial amounts of aid in their mutual competition for influence.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Corruption, fatalism and superstition exacerbated by conspiracy theories have kept Nepal chained to its medieval past.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As our jeep was travelling over an under-construction stretch of road in Bhaktapur, our Nepalese driver shared with us one of the most amazing conspiracy theories that I have ever heard.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">With some pride, he told us that the road was being widened and rebuilt with Japanese aid, not forgetting to add, however, that it was originally designed to be six-lane but had been reduced to four lanes on account of Indian objections!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">Search as you might, you will not find a Nepali who does not subscribe to the conspiracy theory regarding the murder of King Birendra and his family inside the Narayanhity Palace on 1<\/span><sup><span style=\"font-size: small; color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">st<\/span><\/sup><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> June 2001.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">According to official accounts, in a fit of drunken rage the crown prince shot dead his parents and seven other close relatives before turning the gun on himself.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The conspiracy theory, however, blames the massacre on the king\u2019s brother Gyanendra (who later succeeded him) and his son.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Given his unpopularity and ill-advised attempt to restore an absolute monarchy with the help of the army, Gyanendra\u2019s brief reign ended in complete ignominy and the monarchy was abolished in 2008.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The former palace is now a museum.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The murders took place in an annexe of the palace rather than in the main building.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">As a probable concession to the superstitious nature of the Nepalese people, the entire annexe has now been razed down to the plinth level.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Little signposts tell the visitor who was shot where.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">One recent example of the extent to which superstition holds sway in Nepal even at the official level was when, on 4<\/span><sup><span style=\"font-size: small; color: #000000; font-family: Times New Roman;\">th<\/span><\/sup><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"> September 2007, Nepal Airlines ceremonially sacrificed two goats on the tarmac of Kathmandu airport to bless one of its two Boeing 757s.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">This was done to cure this aircraft of the curse which was believed to have caused it to suffer a number of breakdowns! <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Narayanhity Palace is now open to the public. It is remarkable for its modesty, both in its external appearance and internal d\u00e9cor and furnishings. Whatever the hidden riches of Nepal\u2019s monarchs, the modesty of their former palace is evident.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Pakistan\u2019s presidents, prime ministers, governors and chief ministers would find the palace of Nepal\u2019s kings below their station!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Even Nepal\u2019s \u201cliving goddess\u201d is characterized by simplicity. The Kumari Devi lives in Kumari Ghar in the old temple complex in the centre of Kathmandu.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Just as we were looking around in the area, word came that the four-year old \u201cliving goddess\u201d was about to make an appearance at the window of the Kumari Ghar.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">We joined others in the inner courtyard to have a glimpse of her.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">What we could see was no more than a silhouette as she appeared from behind the window of a very dark room.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Perhaps everything is modest in Nepal, except the soaring peaks of its mountains.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Of the twenty highest peaks in the world, 11 are situated within Nepal or on its border.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Pakistani readers might be interested to know that six of the remaining nine are in Pakistan or on the Pakistan-China border.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">On a previous visit to Nepal, I had taken the bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara, about eight hours to the west on a mountain road.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">High on the tourist circuit, Pokhara has a stunningly beautiful lake (Phewa Lake) and is the base for treks to the Annapurna range.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">About a three-hour trek up the mountains from Pokhara is Sarangkot, beautifully perched on a ridge.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From here, on a good day, one gets magnificent views of the peaks of the Annapurna range, particularly the Machhaphuchhare peak, so named because i<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">ts double summit resembles the tail of a fish, but closed to climbers because it is revered by the local population as particularly sacred to the Hindu god Shiva<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Stunning aerial views of the 55-km long <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Annapurna <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">range, which includes the 10th-highest summit in the world, can be had from a left-side window seat on a flight from <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Karachi to Kathmandu<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">For a menacingly close look at the mighty Karakorum, however, I recommend a flight from Islamabad to Skardu.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">There is something about mountains that I find very alluring.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Perhaps it is the dramatic change of scenery at every turn.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Perhaps it is the precipitous drops, the cliffs and the waterfalls.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Perhaps it is their silent but awesome presence.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Or is it their sheer height, as if aspiring to touch the skies?<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Whatever it is, mountains surely set the soul free.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Little wonder that they have been the abode and the refuge of tribes who cherish their independence.<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0 <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Himalaya and Hindukush, Atlas and Andes, Caucasus and Karakorum, Zagros and Taurus, Tianshan and Carpathian, Alps and Apennines \u2013 the people who dwell in these mountains are a hardy bunch for whom freedom is their most important possession.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><em><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\">(Published in Daily Times, 30 March 2011)<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<p align=\"center\"><span style=\"color: #000000;\"><span style=\"font-family: Times New Roman;\"><strong><em>Concluded<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>They call it the \u201croof of the world\u201d for a good reason.\u00a0 Standing there was a very down to earth experience, for everything about Tibet makes one feel earthly, small and weak.\u00a0 But before I tell readers about my encounter &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/?p=61\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[3],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=61"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1188,"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61\/revisions\/1188"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=61"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=61"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.raziazmi.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=61"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}